I was asked if the very light weight Petzl Tibloc could be used as a rope capture for crevasse rescue systems? The answer is, 'yes,' but not without acknowledging that unweighting a Tibloc can be complicated. Here's a walkthrough of one procedure to transfer the load from a Tibloc and a discussion of how this may complicate crevasse rescue scenarios that need a lower.

The Münter hitch can be very useful. While I typically am using more modern climbing equipment for various rappelling, belaying, and rescue techniques, I still have used just the rope, a carabiner, and the Münter from time to time and in lots of different ways. This video goes deep into the Münter by getting into different ways to tie it, different pros and cons of the hitch, and a full walk through and how-to for five types of use cases where the Münter could help us out of a jam.

Should we happen to have lost our belay device while still needing to climb, we may want to employ an auto-locking hitch to help with belays from the top or pack hauls or the like. The Garda, Lorenzi, and Auto-Locking Münter hitches are all options. Here is how to create them, how we might use them, and some pros and cons that come with each.

If you go climbing in the alpine, and particularly in fully wild and maybe even unexplored areas, you are likely to be subjected to rockfall, and that rockfall can become fairly likely. So, how do we assess our terrain for rockfall risk, and then how do we mitigate that risk to keep our likelihood of getting hit by a rock low enough to feel acceptable?

I have been using the Edelrid Pinch break assisting belay device long enough now to have some perspective on the specifications and features that truly distinguish it from the Petzl Grigri. This video goes more deeply into a comparison. I have come to reach for the Pinch, first, in certain applications, but not for all of my climbing. Here's why.

I hear that canister stoves don't work in the cold a lot. But I've also used canister stoves in the cold a lot, and so have many other climbing teams who head to the coldest corners of the globe. However, it could be that there are times that canister stoves make more sense and times liquid-fuel stoves are a better option. This test of eight different stoves sheds some light on how the knocks on canister stoves are overstated as well as circumstances where liquid-fuel stoves might make a better choice.

Blue Ice took a really good harness and redesigned and rebuilt it, anyways. Is the new version of the Choucas Pro harness enough of an improvement over the older version to earn a place in your gear closet?

Two years ago, I did a video about the potential I saw in 3M Gripping Material as a wrap for ice tools. Two years later, now, I have found one version of the material to be not good enough and another version to be pretty good, but at a cost.

After one year of use and one big expedition in Asia, I've learned enough about the Samaya Ultra 60 pack. Here's what I've found to be the pros and cons along with a few modifications I've made to my pack.

Climbing at three miles (4800 meters) above sea level can be a challenge for out body's physiology. Having access to almost as high of peaks in Colorado, here is how I spent the final month before my trip to that three-mile altitude to ensure I showed up pre-acclimatized to the altitude along with a discussion about why intermittent trips up to altitude can still help acclimatization.

High altitude peaks bring many hazards, from rock fall to avalanches to seracs to crevasses, and many people would count weather among those. But when we think about weather, we are often concerned about storms and cold. Well, the cloudless days with perfect weather bring UV rays and sun damage that are way more significant than we experience at the altitudes at which we live.

Flextail makes the Zero Pump and claims it to be the lightest self-contained pump for both inflating and vacuum deflating your backcountry sleeping mattress. I purchased my own and tested it out over multiple seasons. Here's a full review of the pump and my take on circumstances when carrying this into the wild makes sense for me.

A trip plan can keep you and your climbing partners on the same page but also can help your loved ones deal with any emergencies that might arise. So, what can we put in our trip plans to ensure we meet these needs?

I've linked many a short set of climbing pitches into a longer pitch. But I don't always do it. The idea that having to only set up one belay and therefore one belay transition will speed up our climbing doesn't account for a host or reasons why speed might not be the ultimate consideration. Here are some things I consider before I decide to link two pitches together.

When getting ready for a big climb, we work on cardio fitness, we work on strength, we work on technique. But, if the climbing is really pushing our comfort zone, are we going to be able to get into and out of our systems when we are exhausted and stressed? Does practicing systems play a role in training? New climbers and those going on expedition often will, but is there room for say-to-day upkeep of critical system skills?

Monolithic climbing anchors - anchors built from a single, unquestionably strong tree or rock - can be simple and timely while also being incredibly safe. But making them safe means we need to evaluate our chosen terrain feature well and understand a few nuances that can come with our rope, sling, or cordelette configurations.

When moving quickly through moderate terrain, we might be using the rope but not be using standard climbing anchors. When we aren't pitching it out, we can still have a climbing fall that might require us to escape the belay in order to hold our partner in place while we render aid. How can we do that when we are using terrain or body belays? Well, the principles of any belay escape still apply.

This last spring and summer, my kids finally had the experience, technique, and the physical size to utilize appropriate equipment that allowed them to climb steeper couloirs - snow gullies - safely. But those things are only part of the equation. Being aware of different risks and mitigation tactics are necessary, as well. So, here are eight tips that helped us, and may help any other new climbers, approach snow climbing season with care.

There are occasions when we may want to use the climbing rope as the soft good in our climbing anchor. And there are occasions when we might want the same lead climber to climb multiple pitches in a row (block leading). What happens when we want to do both? How do we overcome having the rope we need to take up with us being used in the anchor that is keeping us safe?

The Flat Overhand Bend, also called the Offset Overhand Bend, has gotten a bit of a bad reputation, sometimes being called the European Death Knot. But reputable organizations, like the American Mountain Guides Association, actually recommend this knot for double-strand rappels. So, what are the pros and cons of this knot, how do we tie it, when can we use it, and for what applications might it not be as good of choice?