South African Rappel (Abseil): When and How to Use This Emergency Rappel When Climbing

Self-reliance. If climbing is an exercise of independence, then it seems to me that an appropriate exchange for that independence ought to be a dedicated effort towards self-reliance. That isn’t to say that accidents don’t happen, and I am certainly not advocating for some nihilistic idea that you shouldn’t call on others for assistance if assistance is needed. No, far less extreme than that, I suggest that we each climbing group has a responsibility to reduce the number of circumstances where assistance is needed. There are really two reasons I believe this. Yes, I am implying that one of these reason is that we should not be wantonly asking others to enter a dangerous situation (and all climbing rescues are dangerous, by degrees). But the other is far more practical. If you are quite literally reliant upon the presence and ability of others to help you out, then what happens if the people aren’t there or those who are lack the abilities that are demanded?

So, if we can deal with eventualities, ourselves, we improve our own odds as well as the odds of those who would otherwise be called in.

That’s why I take climbing safety so seriously. So, today is another addition to the climbing safety series. The previous videos in the series are all about pitched-out climbing and assumes you have brought the right gear. This video, obviously, is kind of the opposite. What can you do to get down from a precarious place of you don’t have any gear except your rope? Well, like alpine climbers like to say, “If you have a rope, you have a chance.”

Like I say in the video, I think that finding oneself in a scenario in which this particular “gearless” technique would prove needed are pretty rare, indeed. I, myself, have been in only once situation where a rappel on a rope with no gear was appropriate, and - as I said - it was because I ran into a party with no gear on a route that typically doesn’t have technical climbing. It was just that the conditions of snow-covered rock has rendered the route more technical and the party didn’t realize it until they had passed the crux. Now, with the most difficult part of the climb behind them, they had to reverse the moves, and as is often the case in climbing, getting down was trickier than getting up the section.

When I bring a rope, I always bring an alpine harness with me along with a few other pieces of equipment. And since I endeavor to be careful with my gear, I have never had a situation where my rope was fine but the rest of my gear wasn’t there or wasn’t in working condition. But, again as I discuss in the video, I can imagine situations where that could happen - and not all would involve negligence.

But, if risk often mounts for stacking several small, negative events, safety is a parallel endeavor. By brining equipment, then being careful with that equipment, then knowing how to use that equipment in creative ways, and then finally knowing how to navigate a situation where your equipment is missing or negated, we have added layers of safety that can help tilt the odds in our favor should the mounting risks ever erode some of the layers of that protection.

So, you can add to your layers of safety by taking a look at this video on the South African Rappel or South African Abseil. Should you ever find yourself needing to get down a technical face with only a rope remaining amongst your kit, this seemingly impractical technique will suddenly be both practical and invaluable.