The right tool for the job
High altitude gear
For nearly four years, I have been taking the Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism pack for most of my alpine climbs, whether that be on rock, snow, or ice. After that long of throwing the pack on my back, here are some of the pros and cons that I've experienced while using it.
Ever hear climbers talk about “insecure climbing” and the fear that brings to them? Well imagine feeling insecure at every step up a rock face. This is what a scramble, which should be a fun romp, can feel like in the wrong footwear. Scrambles are examples of where approach shoes can really make a difference in our enjoyment of the outdoors. Here’s how their specific features combine to make such a big difference.
Just like understanding the tradeoffs between single- and double-walled tents, it is equally important to understand the basic differences in single- and double-boots when we head up for an alpine climb or mountaineering attempt. While the differences between specific boots will be varied, there are some general differences between boots with and without removable liners that I keep in mind when selecting a boot for a climbing adventure. Here is what I consider when deciding what to put on my feet.
For over a decade, I've been using the same split finger gloves (or split finger mittens) as a compromise between the warmth of a mitten and the dexterity of a glove. They aren't right for every trip but I can use them in a surprising amount of situations. Here's a video on some of the pros and cons and how I choose when to use them.
Famed high altitude mountaineer Ed Viesturs has used two-person quilts on the highest mountains in the world. Backpackers often use quilts, now, as a matter of course. So, my family has been using the two-person Enlightened Equipment Accomplice sleeping quilt for backpacking and for alpine climbing, both to add warmth (body heat of a second person) and cut weight (less per-person weight). This video offers a product review.
If we are out on a backpacking trip or an alpine climb, we are already counting ounces. More efficient canister stoves tend to be heavier. So, how many days of fuel use need to happen before that efficiency and saved fuel pays off when compared to carrying a lighter, less efficient stove with, therefore, more fuel? We did a first test in summer conditions.
Camping comfortably can mean the difference between being restored every night of our camping, backpacking, or alpine climbing adventure, and reaching our goal, or slowly getting drained to the point where we have to quit. One of the first things to consider about our camp strategy is whether to take a single-walled or double-walled tent. Here are some of the pros and cons of each.
Our twin boys run, climb, scramble, hike, backpack, swim... you name it. We try to find items that can be used - and used well - across many different disciplines. We've been using the La Sportiva Ultra Raptor II Jr shoes for life on the trail as well as scrambling on the rocks. How well have they performed as trail runners, hikers, and approach shoes? Take a look at the full review.
Our boys, now age 8, have been using the Deuter Climber 22 Liter Kid's backpack for over three years. It's been the pack they take on just about every hiking, backpacking, camping, and climbing adventure. So, with that much wear and trust put into the backpack, we thought it would be worth a review. Here's what we dislike, like, and love about this pack.
Our twin boys have diversified their climbing disciplines, moving from top rope to multi-pitch climbing, ice climbing, and even sport climbing on lead. As they've moved into climbs that demand gear management, we needed a new harness that had gear loops but still fit their small frames. That harness is the Ocun Webee Kids' version. Check out the review.
For the past two winters, I have been experimenting with battery-heated gloves as I've gone out camping, hiking, and climbing. Like all niche gear, they are good at some things and not so good at others. Here is a full review of the Lenz Heat Glove 6.0 Finger Cap.
When we go climbing, camping, or hiking in the backcountry during the winter, we tend to stay out longer and experience more extreme conditions. As advances in technology have improved battery-heated gloves, are they now able to perform well enough and long enough to make them worth having in your gear closet?
Ice climbing. Snow couloir climbing. Even mixed climbing. My kids want to do it all, but off-the-shelf crampons can't fit on their small feet. Here's how I took advantage of the new trend in modular crampon manufacturing to make some crampons that I'd be willing to wear but fit on my kids and work with their limited boot options.
Blue Ice produces some excellent minimalist and ultralight gear for alpine climbing and ski mountaineering. This video reviews the Choucas Pro harness and discusses the pros and cons as well as some climbing genres where the harness may excel.
A cottage brand out of Japan, Locus Gear, has made a free standing, ultralight, dome tent with four-season toughness by producing a fabric combination of Dyneema and eVent. It's called the Djedi. After using it for a year on camping trips, backpacking trips, and alpine climbing trips, I'm providing a full review.
I use trekking poles to help reduce the impact on my surgically repaired knee from my hiking, backpacking, climbing, and camping... anything that requires a pack and an approach. But I now only use the style of trekking poles that fold up just like tent poles. For me, it's a safety issue. This video describes the safety problem as well as discusses some of the trade-offs I must accept by using this style of pole.
When the manufacturer of our favorite kids' sun hoody stopped making them, we needed to find a new option. Eventually, we lucked into the hoody made by PIQIDIG, and we are happy it happened. Here, we review the PIQIDIG Kids' Sun Hoody, after a year of use, so you can learn if it's a good option for your little ones.
Hiking, climbing, and backpacking conditions can risk you ankles or your feet. From gravel kicking up into your shoes to shards of loose rock, the consequences can very from annoying to damaging. One set of conditions that can start as annoying but become dangerous is spring snow. There is often too little to require snowshoes, but enough that sticking a leg into a collapsing hole of snow is likely. That snow getting into your shoes can cause cold feet. Cold feet untreated can become frostbite. Ankle gaiters can solve this problem by keeping snow out of our boots and shoes, but there aren't really any great options for kids. Here's how I converted an adult ankle gaiter into a kid-sized one.
I carry a camp pillow when mountaineering, backpacking, or alpine climbing at altitude. There are multiple reasons. One reason is that at high altitudes I can become susceptible to Cheyne-Stokes breathing, an apnea that impacts my ability to sleep. Find out why plenty of people get Cheyne-Stokes at altitude, and how a simple item like a camp pillow can alleviate this condition. Also discover how a camp pillow may contribute to a warmer and lighter sleep system, overall.
Winter hiking, backpacking, camping, and alpine climbing can create challenging conditions for keeping your hands and feet warm. And for your feet, then you need to add in the need to also not get blisters. I've used the Lorpen T3+ Inferno Expedition and the T3+ Trekking Expedition socks for several winter seasons, now, and I offer my long term review of what is the best winter sock I have ever put on.
Going on a backpacking, multi-day climbing, mountaineering, hiking, or a camping trip during the dry, winter months can lead to split fingertips. The dry air and other conditions of winter just make it more likely. Those wounds can make using your hands painful. Here's how I help prevent those splits from happening as well as how I deal with the injury if I don't follow my own advice well enough!
I enjoy camping, hiking, backpacking, and alpine climbing, and I enjoy doing all of these things in all seasons. It is always a challenge to find clothing layers that can handle the different activities and conditions I face. This is a review of the Outdoor Vitals Ventus Active Hoodie. Can it handle all of the variables I throw at it?
Climbing and cycling helmets are different. They are built to respond to different types of forces and have different safety standards. The Petzl Picchu helmet meets both sets of standards, giving your kids one helmet that can safely cover both activities.
As new materials are developed into climbing tools, and as my needs on my climbs have evolved, I've changed up some elements of my standard climbing rack. Here is a look at some soft goods (slings, prusiks, and cords) that I have begun carrying on all my climbs including some pros and cons.