All blogs
Every full length (longer than 60 seconds) video and accompanying blog post
Cleaning an Anchor and Transitioning from Climbing to Lowering Off with Mussy Hooks
Potentially, the transition from climbing to lowering can be the most dangerous part of sport climbing. Setting up a system without any additional eyes to check your work increases the danger, and facing different permanent hardware setups means we need to know how to manage those scenarios. This video walks through how to safely transition from at the top of a climb when facing two mussy hooks, both when cleaning an anchor or when lowering directly.
How to Safely Set Up a Top Rope Climbing Anchor on Two Bolts While on Lead
Transitioning from climbing up to being lowered down can be simple or can be tricky, depending upon the hardware you find at the anchor bolts. It can get even more complicated if you are putting in a top rope anchor for climbers to use after you. Here's how to manage this transition safely.
A Mental Checklist to Stay Safe While Leading Sport Climbing
Our kids just completed their first sport climbing leads and their first multi-pitch climbs. We are continuing to shed some light on how we got ourselves and our kids ready so that they could make those advances in their climbing journeys. Today, we are talking about the mental checklist we impart to any new sport climbing leaders to make sure they were staying as safe as possible when up on the sharp end of the rope.
Getting New Rock Climbers Ready for Sport Lead Climbing
Our kids hit a few rock climbing milestones, this year, putting up their first sport climbing leads and completing their first multi-pitch climbs as seconds. Today, we are sharing how the kids progressed in skills and how we gave them exposure to some of the different demands of climbing so that we all felt comfortable letting them head up on lead.
How to Set Fun and Skill Building Routes on Your Home Climbing Wall
A lot of home climbing walls go unused, often because the routes get stale and boring. Here's how I've approached setting routes for the climbers in my family so that we can always feel like the routes we have on the wall are helping us become better climbers while also being fun!
Rock Features, Grips, and Moves: Climbing Terms for New Rock Climbers
To get better at any endeavor, we need a way to talk about it. New rock climbers are not an exception. In this video, we describe and name some basic rock features, grip and foot placement types, and rock climbing techniques. This rock climbing vocabulary will help new climbers discuss their climbing with others, hopefully stimulating help, collaboration, and improvement.
Climbing Commands You NEED to Know for Safe Climbing
Communication between climbing partners is a fundamental part of maintaining safety. Surprises create risk because you can't plan for things you can't anticipate. Solid communication can reduce surprises. Before attempting nuanced multi-partner, multi-pitch, or complicated alpine climbs, here's how we taught the new climbers in our family - our kids - good communication while working comparatively simply top rope climbs. These communication habits will form the foundation of a lifetime of safe climbing.
Teaching Kids to Belay: A Progression of Learning While Maintaining Safety
Our kids are young and very into rock climbing. Our philosophy has always been to empower them, and that demands they take on increasing responsibilities for safety as they become ready. If they have always been partners in keeping themselves safe they will more likely continue to be safety conscious as they enjoy a lifetime of climbing. One major milestone in that climbing journey is learning proper top rope belaying. This is how we taught our young kids how to top rope belay while ensuring we kept everyone safe along the way.
What's on In My Climbing Rack? Climbing Gear that I Take on Every Climb
While the choice about taking ice screws or nuts or cams or pickets will always depend on route conditions and the route, itself, there are a few items that I take climbing on every trip, whether dry rock, snow, or ice, whether at the crag, in the alpine, or on a glacier. This gear helps me deal with any eventuality from standard climbing needs to terrain beyond my free climbing ability, to rescues.
South African Rappel (Abseil): When and How to Use This Emergency Rappel When Climbing
The South African Rappel or South African Abseil is a technique that can get you down a single-pitch cliff using nothing but a rope when out climbing, scrambling, or even hiking. When and why would you use this rappel technique? How do you perform the rappel, safely? We provide answers to these questions in this video.
74 Year Old Grandpa's First Alpine Climb: Three Generations Go Climbing
My Dad was one of my original partners for summiting peaks. Now at 74 years old, we had him out on a new summit experience, doing some technical climbing with his son and grandsons on Horsetooth Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park.
Blue Ice Choucas Pro Harness Review for Alpine Climbing, Alpine Scrambles, and Multi-Pitch Climbing
Blue Ice produces some excellent minimalist and ultralight gear for alpine climbing and ski mountaineering. This video reviews the Choucas Pro harness and discusses the pros and cons as well as some climbing genres where the harness may excel.
Inov8 Roclite G 315 GTX Review When Used for Hiking, Backpacking, and Alpine Scrambling
Inov8 is a company with a tradition in fell running: moving over the wet mountains of the LaKe District in the UK. I've been wearing the Inov8 Roclite G 315 GTX shoes for several years, and have put them to the test on fastmoving hiking trips, fully laden backpacking trips, and even alpine climbs that demand rock scrambling. Here's my review of this versatile shoe.
Reviewing the La Sportiva Aequilibrium Top Boot: Backpacking, Mountaineering, and Climbing Trips
La Sportiva created three versions of the Aequilibrium boot to help alpinists lose the weight of needing multiple shoes for trips that contained dry approaches with backpacking, snow filled mountaineering, and technical climbing. Can the boot accommodate all of those disparate needs? We provide a full review.
Locus Gear Djedi Tent Review: 1 Year of Ultralight Backpacking, Camping, & Climbing Trips
A cottage brand out of Japan, Locus Gear, has made a free standing, ultralight, dome tent with four-season toughness by producing a fabric combination of Dyneema and eVent. It's called the Djedi. After using it for a year on camping trips, backpacking trips, and alpine climbing trips, I'm providing a full review.
Mount Moran's Skillet Glacier Route: 6000 Vertical Feet of, Hiking, Bushwhacking, and Snow Climbing
A climbing partner from Denali (seven years ago) put together a trip for the Skillet Glacier route on Mount Moran (12,605') in Grand Teton National Park. She and I embraced hiking the long approach, bushwhack off trail, and 6000 feet of elevation gain to get our fill of summer snow climbing on a direct and impressive line.
I Only Use Trekking Poles that Can Fold Up Into My Pack. Here's Why
I use trekking poles to help reduce the impact on my surgically repaired knee from my hiking, backpacking, climbing, and camping... anything that requires a pack and an approach. But I now only use the style of trekking poles that fold up just like tent poles. For me, it's a safety issue. This video describes the safety problem as well as discusses some of the trade-offs I must accept by using this style of pole.
Affordable. Durable. Effective. A One Year Review of the PIQIDIG Kids' Sun Hoody
When the manufacturer of our favorite kids' sun hoody stopped making them, we needed to find a new option. Eventually, we lucked into the hoody made by PIQIDIG, and we are happy it happened. Here, we review the PIQIDIG Kids' Sun Hoody, after a year of use, so you can learn if it's a good option for your little ones.
Keep Going: a Short Film of Twin 7 Year Olds' Camping and Climbing Trip up their First Snow Couloir
Spring time in the Rocky Mountains means snow couloir season for climbers, and this year, we figured out how to get technical crampons to work on the boys' small feet. So, the boys and I took a short camping trip that culminated in their first real alpine snow climb, including a few small snow fields before a 500 vertical foot gully. They learned the mental and physical persistence that direct snow lines can demand, and I was admittedly in awe at their incredible capabilities while being so young.
Why You Might Want, and How to Make Ankle Gaiters for Hiking, Climbing, and Backpacking Kids
Hiking, climbing, and backpacking conditions can risk you ankles or your feet. From gravel kicking up into your shoes to shards of loose rock, the consequences can very from annoying to damaging. One set of conditions that can start as annoying but become dangerous is spring snow. There is often too little to require snowshoes, but enough that sticking a leg into a collapsing hole of snow is likely. That snow getting into your shoes can cause cold feet. Cold feet untreated can become frostbite. Ankle gaiters can solve this problem by keeping snow out of our boots and shoes, but there aren't really any great options for kids. Here's how I converted an adult ankle gaiter into a kid-sized one.